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Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

At New York Fashion Week: What Recession?

Designers this week were laser focused on pleasing their customer, but rarely managed to convey what’s happening in the culture at large. Lauren Sherman reports on collections, from Tory Burch and Tom Ford to Area and Peter Do.
Korean singer Jeno walks the runway for the Peter Do fashion show during September 2022 New York Fashion Week.
Korean singer Jeno walks the runway for the Peter Do fashion show during September 2022 New York Fashion Week. (Getty Images)

As pop culture has fragmented into an endless stream of TikTok reels algorithmically tailored to your specific likes, so has fashion, and the Spring/Summer 2023 shows in New York reflected this reality. In the past, designer collections were often in conversation with one another and broadly headed in a similar direction, offering a sense of where the culture was headed. Now, each brand is an island, catering to a specific niche.

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Further Reading

The United States of Stuff

From Fendi to Tibi, the opening days of New York Fashion Week were unapologetically commercial, reports Lauren Sherman.

Women Are the Engine of American Fashion

From Khaite to Maryam Nassir Zadeh, female-led labels at New York Fashion Week place their customer at the centre of the narrative. Plus: Coach, Tommy Hilfiger and Vogue make mass-market bids.

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