Skip to main content
BoF Logo

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

A Controversial Alternative to Fashion’s Coal Addiction

Big brands like H&M Group, Inditex and Nike are turning to biomass like wood pellets and agricultural waste in a bid to get the world’s dirtiest fossil fuel out of energy-intensive manufacturing processes. Climate groups say it’s not any better.
A view of fabrication of biomass fuel type pellet, which is used for heating and obtained by drying and grinding industrial and agricultural wastes and compressing them under high pressure.
Biomass pellets made from agricultural waste are one alternative fuel source big fashion brands are exploring in their efforts to phase coal out of supply chains. (Mehmet Emin Menguarslan/Anadolu Agency via Getty Images)

Deep in fashion’s supply chain sits the dirtiest part of the business: the energy-intensive process of dyeing and treating fabrics.

Please sign in to ensure you can read our agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice. Or get in touch at support@businessoffashion.com if you experience difficulties.

Further Reading
About the author
Sarah Kent
Sarah Kent

Sarah Kent is Chief Sustainability Correspondent at The Business of Fashion. She is based in London and drives BoF's coverage of critical environmental and labour issues.

© 2026 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Sustainability
How fashion can do better for people and the planet.

Fashion Searches For a New Climate Solution

Coach-owner Tapestry’s new carbon-removal partnership and brands making fresh commitments to textile-to-textile recycling startups show an industry searching for ways to address its environmental impact.


view more
Latest News & Analysis
Unrivalled, world class journalism across fashion, luxury and beauty industries.
VIEW MORE
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON