Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

How Ulla Johnson Played Fashion’s Long Game

After 25 years in business, Ulla Johnson has reached nine figures in annual sales by charting her own course, from resisting outside fundraising to embracing what she calls “slow fashion.” With a new CEO at the helm, she’s once again looking to enter the next stage of growth her own way.

Ulla Johnson launched her business in 1998. (Weston Wells/Courtesy Ulla Johnson)

Diana Pearl

06 September 2024

BoF PROFESSIONAL

In New York, a city synonymous with the colour black, Ulla Johnson’s bold and bright designs stand out. During last year’s quiet luxury moment, her clothes remained covered in patterns sourced by artisans from India and Kenya. Rather than the sleek, even severe, aesthetic New York brands are known for, the brand embraces a softer, unabashedly feminine style, filled with floral prints, full skirts, ruffles and lace.

Please sign in to ensure you can read our agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice. Or get in touch at support@businessoffashion.com if you experience difficulties.

What to Do When Your Product Goes Viral

Virality can be a blessing and a curse. To avoid becoming a one-hit wonder, companies should make the most of the moment, but also think long-term.

Why Some Designers Are Creating Their Own Dupes

Luxury brands used to hold their fast-fashion collaborations at arm’s length, but changing consumer attitudes and new financial incentives are changing the high-low game.

Bracing for Turbulence, Independent Designers Focus on What Sells

As recession looms and retailers pull back, finding the balance between creativity and commerciality, growth and caution is existential for young brands.

About the author