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Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

Why Diffusion Beauty Brands Rarely Take Off

With the launch of AF94, Halsey now operates two makeup brands. But star power alone won’t ensure success for a diffusion label, a notoriously tricky concept to pull off in beauty.
AF94, Halsey's new makeup label, is a diffusion line of her brand About-Face
AF94, Halsey's new makeup label, is a diffusion line of her brand About-Face. (Courtesy)

In 2001, when Marc Jacobs introduced diffusion line Marc by Marc Jacobs, I became fixated on an olive green, twill mini skirt with oversized buttons that cost just under $200. It was too expensive for an unemployed high school junior, but still a fraction of the cost for an item from Jacobs’ main collection, something I could only visit at Barneys New York, like a museum exhibit. After making a scene at Intermix, my mother relented; I owned my first designer diffusion piece. In college, I moved on to Dolce & Gabbana’s D&G, pairing a fake tan with a skintight, black satin dress and a hot pink patent leather clutch. Every year, I shopped D&G’s winter sale at its now-shuttered West Broadway store.

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Further Reading

Why Do We Root Against Celebrity Beauty Brands?

Two of the most talked about celebrity skin care brands make their debut this month – Hailey Bieber’s Rhode and Kim Kardashian’s SKKN by Kim. But are consumers getting tired of celebrity beauty lines?

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