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Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

Glossier Needs More Than ‘You’ to Grow

The 11 year-old beauty brand has seen success with its fragrance franchise — which adds a new scent, Fleur, this month — but is focused on building multiple categories to broaden its appeal.
Four bottles of Glossier You fragrance are stacked on a white background, starting at the bottom with Doux, then You, then Reve, then Fleur at the top.
Glossier's "Impressions of You" fragrances from the brand's portfolio, and are remixes on the 2017 scent You (pictured with the red cap). (Glossier)

To understand You, the best-selling fragrance launched by Glossier in 2017, you have to understand Santal 33, the best-selling fragrance launched by Le Labo in 2011. Both have the same father — Frank Voelkl, of the firm dsm-Firmenich — but are otherwise sisters with categorically opposite vibes.

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Further Reading

How Merit Won Over the Grown-Up Glossier Girl

Instead of getting caught up in Gen-Z mania, Merit has become profitable and expects to hit $100 million in revenue this year by targeting Millennials with classic luxury branding and no-makeup makeup.

How Glossier Tried and Failed to Become a Tech Company

The line’s $1 billion valuation hinged on Emily Weiss repositioning the brand as a tech start-up rather than “only” a beauty label. As illustrated in an excerpt from Marisa Meltzer’s new book on the founder’s larger-than-life ambitions, inclusive of an app that never saw the light of day, it was a poor fit practically from the start.

About the author
Brennan Kilbane
Brennan Kilbane

Brennan Kilbane is News and Features Editor at The Business of Beauty. He is based in London, and supports BoF’s coverage of the multifaceted cosmetics industry, from fine fragrance to wellness trends.

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